Basque Country

March 31

We discovered a few days ago that we were out of propane (LP) and when we went to refill we found that the American coupling was a different size than the European one.... so we could not fill the tank. Now what. Stuff in the refrigerator, no coffee in the morning? We drove quite a ways to Bayonne, then were sent to another town and finally went another hour to Orthex and found someone who cared! This was certainly different that our pastoral experience of the last few days. Traffic, noise, getting lost, going the wrong direction. Very frustrating. Alain spent time calling to try to find this part. Finally we decided that he should install a European system with an extra part for two countries that don't use the same system! And when we get home we will have the American one put back in! How's that! But we have to wait until Tuesday afternoon to have it installed so here we are wasting time in the French Basque area again, darn!

Because we do not often have access to water, we have been using bottled water to clean up our sparse dirty dishes but we were stopped in a small town and David noticed there was a faucet available in the men's bathroom...close to where we could park. Well, guess what! The hose threads were not the same! European threads are bigger. So we duct taped the parts together and hung on to them tight and it worked!

And at another small town we noticed a butcher was open. What a happy guy. We had to play charades to get what we wanted. Our question was, “Can you eat this cold or does it have to be heated?” Finally I shivered to make him understand cold. Shaking his head he ran to get his cigarette lighter and flicked on the flame. So we got our answer. It needed to be heated.

And we got pulled over by the Gendarme again. This time all the officer needed was to hear our spoken English and he said, “Go.” Maybe having these American license plates is a really good thing. One man said to us, “This is the first time I see with my eyes a car with U.S. license plates.” And since most police cannot speak or read English, they really don't know what our papers say. It embarrasses them.

We drove by a paddle ball court and watched four men play. This is a variation on a national Basque game. Small wood paddles and a hard fast ball. Participants play against a wall with a line painted across it lower than a tennis net. I believe two and four can play. It is really fast. There are covered courts here with bleachers. But the real game is called Pelota and is played with a long hooked racket that sends a hard bouncy ball to 150 miles an hour.

Yesterday afternoon we decided to stop early and take a break. Our camp spot was down a dirt road to the river Oloron at Navarrenx. We were alone in paradise. Out came our chairs and table to the river's edge. I sketched while David got some hors d'oeuvres and wine out as we enjoyed the warm sun. We have had some pretty nice inexpensive wines. We watched a white heron spying from his high perch...then fly to a new one. Birdies stay up late here. Bedtime does not seem to be at sundown. They just keep chirping.

Tonight we are in another small town parking lot. There is an old church but everything else is newer....and some apartment buildings are new. Lots of apartments. The first grouping we have seen outside of large cities. I think it is a bedroom community for St. Jean de Luz. We attach our apartment on wheels to theirs and spend a night with them.

THOUGHTS AND OBSERVATIONS:

> Three cities/towns that we went to, St. Jean Pied de Port, Espelette (Red hot peppers and chocolate) and Ainhoa were recommended places for us to see. They are all rather touristy, even off season. We strolled around, had our afternoon beer at a sidewalk table, but it seems we prefer the real thing untouched unless the stores are really good. St. Jean Pied de Port is the meeting place for pilgrims walking the trail to Santiago and is quite famous. I can imagine it is amazing when this happens.

> David pointed out the wiggly lines of pee that the sheep leave as they cross paved roads. They don't stop, just keep going and it leaves a tell tale wiggly line. Oh, the sheep crossed here!

> Brown, white and black thrushes are often seen along the fence lines. I have never seen a robin. Pigeons and doves have the upper hand here.

> The outside workers in France have bright two color designer uniforms that look great on them. Different designs and colors for different jobs.

> The dogs who mind the sheep and other odd jobs are literally bright eyed and bushy tailed. There are no slackers!

> One morning David saw a man in a field digging with a pick ax. He had a belt around him with a sack. Any ideas what he was up to? I don't think one would be after truffles or mushrooms with a pick ax.

> I remarked to David that there is almost too much beauty.

April 1 (Happy birthday Sharon Wynne)

Today I got word that my dear friend Carol is in hospice care. She has been so bravely fighting cancer for over three years. We go back a long ways and share many great times and some hard times together and even some sisterly secrets. We learned to cross country ski together and kayak also. She is the most genuine human being I know. What you see is what you get. No games, no hidden agendas. She is leaving her family with a life time of photos and words in a family book. She is very smart. Spent most of her career working at the Oregonian newspaper as a computer programer at first and then on to head the department for many years. She is a hiker and climber of mountains, and the Columbia river gorge and takes beautiful close-up photos of wild flowers. She can knit any design...it is her math brain. She is short! She had a super duper bicycle made for herself. Four of us did a bike trip together up Vancouver Island and back down on the mainland side. She and her family (Husband Hal and two boys Chris (and Victoria) and Greg have traveled all over the world and I mean that literally. They have been gone 3 or 4 times a year as time would allow them. She leaves all her friends so sad and hurting. We needed more time together.

We have spent some lovely time today in St. Jean de Luz. This was such a pleasure on a sunny Sunday afternoon. (Free Parking!) It is a pretty city on the sea with two boat harbors...pleasure and fishing. Long gold beaches stretch in front of the town, with a promenade to enjoy them. We did that and then almost got the blanket and a snack and went to the beach...almost... because we got caught in watching children dancing Basque folk dances to drums and flutes. All in wonderful black, red and white costumes...with berets for the boys of course. (Speaking of Berets, I talked David into buying one and wearing it Basque style so that there is a bill shape in front. He looks extremely handsome!) We also walked the streets and dipped into some fabric shops. Had a sorbet cone. And inspected the church. St. Jean Baptist. Another beautiful alter and painted walls and ceiling. Again the stations of the Cross were done in ceramic and were really descriptive and captivating. I have been drawn to the faces of women statues...Mary and Liberty/Memorial types. The grief and strength of women. There was another really good statue, successfully getting across the sadness of Mary. So this is a good city to come to. High end so the shops are good. Lots of restaurants and street dining. Big square with entertainment. And the beach and harbor.

April 2

Dipping into Spain again we spent our day in San Sebastian. Both the French and Spanish Basque areas speak the same language. Euskara. There is no language related to it. Many signs are in their traditional folk-style type face. They also have a logo or symbol that shows up on everything Basque. Both the French and Spanish areas would like to have their independence. San Sebastian, named after their saint, 1,000 years ago. It is a large city (feeling a lot like California) with a mix of architecture, since the city burned and had to be rebuilt. There are wonderful people spaces...especially in the old town. Narrow streets filled with shops and a square here and there. There is a promenade along the walled waterfront...about 2 miles. Lots of fishing boats. We watched kayakers like baby ducks, following their teacher, all different colored boats. A calm blue blue sea. Marine climate which always makes the view a bit hazy. A swimmer was making his way across from one side to the other. A hill (mountain?) on each end of the big sandy crescent beach and a small island at the entrance to the bay. There is a huge statue of Christ on the north hill, protecting the bay. We climbed and climbed to the top. Then back down to inspect another church that was the biggest of all...it was almost like heaven inside! Such ornate decoration...and tall vaulted ribbed ceilings and some domed. The music was like angels singing. Whew! And beggars at the door. Just time enough to buy some gelatos before the time on the parking ran out.

Enough of the big fast exciting city. We needed to find a relaxing home for the night. How frustrating was that! Too much brand new construction and our GPS went crazy trying to find it's way out. We went over the same freeways, round-abouts and bridges and finally sat still for 10 minutes to try to figure a way out! We did. Came to a beautiful village, La Bastide-Clairence. Let's treat ourselves to dinner! So we found ourselves in a small restaurant, stone walls, teapot and plate collections and just a few quiet customers. David had shrimp. I had medallions of monk fish after a starter of excellent soup. And we had a local bottle of white wine that was perfect. Now we are ready to pull out the bed and jump in. Tomorrow we go back to the garage in Orthez and have the new propane coupling installed.

April 3

Today we took our time over hill and dale inspecting new villages and churches. I am getting to the point that I can't wait to see into one of these painted churches. But this morning was really hard. David and I were having a lot of trouble with the thought of losing Carol or that she might be in pain. I was saddened to the point of tears and really hurting inside for most of the day. Church visits were the perfect thing. David lit two candles for Carol. It helps to think we are doing something positive in some way. The stations of the cross are always good to see...like being in a gallery. Today we saw some spectacular oil paintings. The artist really captured the story and gave it back to us to feel. This church was in Bidache (in case any of you are traveling this way). In the afternoon we arrive at the garage only to find out the the part did not fit and that a new one was coming tomorrow. We needed to find another serene quiet spot to sooth us, close enough to get our car back for it's surgery tomorrow. Sauveterre-de-Bearn. Lots to see in this small place on a river. The medieval town still is here and being used. A great church with inside walls painting everywhere, quite freshly painted. Subtle colors. The walls are painted to look like stone block walls. Though somewhere under there it really is stone. Leaf and flower motifs decorate the pillar bases and tops. And the alter area is loaded. There are old city walls, crumbling towers and draw bridges. We looked over the high town wall and saw a space we wanted to camp. It took awhile, but we found a road that only locals know about and here we are alone again, by a river with medieval ruins surrounding us. David put on a new CD of a Basque mens' choir and we soaked it all in.

To close. We picked up our emails later in the day. From Hal, came the news that Carol was gone. So quickly fading. No pain.

April 4

Wednesday, and yes we finally got the part to our propane tank and we cooked dinner tonight...and there will be coffee in the morning! With a delay of 5 days in this area, we are actually happy we had this time to slowly tour the countryside. For awhile today we were up in the foothills again. In St. Blaise we found a dear little church...not quite Roman, not yet Gothic but a mix of things, some being Spanish decoration. There was a six pointed star stretching from end to end to end in the dome. A very unusual tower of three tiers. A little beauty. We have come almost to Balbao, where we intend to see Frank Gehry's extraordinary architecture for the art museum there. We are in Spain now and have made our way along the coast between San Sebastian and Balbao...Fishing ports, places people love to come to in the summer. I picked one randomly to put into the GPS and here we are in Ondarroa. I can't figure this place out. The town is built from the sea port and along up the fresh water/sea tide river. There are many, many apartment buildings facing the river and backed up against steep cliffs (the sea is on the other side of these cliffs). I don't really see any single houses. There are so many cars parked wherever they can find a spot...legal or not. I don't think parking laws are enforced. When we drove through the streets on arrival, at about 6:00 pm, they were teaming with people maybe going home from work to their apartments, but it seemed many were out strolling and that went on for hours. I have not experienced anything quite like this in any other place. I need to know the history/mystery. Tonight we are camped in a parking lot along with other campers and Rvs. On our side of the river there is a long promenade. We will walk it in the morning and see what we can find out.

THOUGHTS AND OBSERVATIONS:

> A most calming thing...raindrops in a flat slow river.

> Most of the cows in French Basque country are blond.

> My mother would have loved this BLOG.

> Carol made sure that Hal was set up to follow our European adventures when she was gone. (You live life as full as you are able until the very moment you die)

> I could not be enjoying myself on this journey if David were not here to do what he does best...mechanical stuff, cooking, driving, baguette stops, gas and propane fill-up, jokes and just generally taking care of me.

April 5 (Happy Birthday Billy McKee! Xoxoxo)

Well, as Pastor Andy would have said, “Silly, it's Holy Week! That is why the streets are full of folks.” And that is the reason. Celebrations of different kinds and people gone from home on vacations with family. We drove to Lekeitio, another great fishing port. Again apartments were built on the hillside...lots of fine views, but the whole town lived in apartments and they were all out celebrating. As we drove through, we noticed everyone walking one way, all with umbrellas in the rain. Old, young, kids, everyone! What is going on? It must be a religious pilgrimage. So we followed the walkers and the cars and came to a policeman (who spoke Basque). What's going on? He tried to tell us to no avail...but then he whinnied and made a thumpity thump sound. HORSES? Yes, he nodded with a big grin. We went on up the hill to find a parking place. HORSES RACING ON THE BEACH!! Just as we finished parking in a very illegal place the same policeman drove up...Nope...can't park here. Move on. So we did of course and found a place off the road in the ditch. But who cares?! We had to go and see. It was quite a walk to the long open beach but worth it. What fun the whole community was having. An oval course had been set up and it appeared to be local riders and horses running in heats. It was so fun to see those horses race by on the beach. At the turns it was hard because of the soft sand getting softer and softer. Finally, the last race was three ovals and the leader was a whole lap ahead. At one point he turned around to see no one behind him and made his horse run harder! It is a good thing the races were over because the open surf was taking over the sea side of the track! So back we trudged up the hill. David was getting the car onto the road and I was standing on the other side. Who should pull up but our friend the officer. Essentially, he said, “So how was it?” I answered enthusiastically and he grinned again, proud of his town. If you are in this area, the races happen Thursday, in Holy week (week before Easter).

On to the next town of Gernika. Early in WW ll, Franco teamed up with Hitler and offered up this town to receive a test the Germans had developed for strategic bombing. The Germans and Italians obliterated the town during a market day afternoon when many people came into Gernika, to sell or shop. The town rebuilt and made it it's mission to promote peace at all cost. We went to the Peace Museum and were able to feel a little bit of how the that day might have felt to it's occupants. We also saw a positive side of how they moved on and what they did with the tragedy. The city won the highest peace award. Picasso was so upset by this act that he painted a very famous painting that hangs in Madrid.

The other museum that was very interesting to us was the history of the Basque. The language was spoken on both sides of the Pyrenees since the time of cavemen. There are now seven “provinces” of Basque people, 4 in Spain and 3 in France. Their language comes out of all seven areas that were at one time combined as the language they now speak. Most speak Basque, Spanish and French, and many of them speak English. It feels like they are spirited and fun-loving.

And, for Maundy Thursday we went to mass at the beautiful central church. It is hard to find anything but a catholic church to attend. Everyone is catholic.

THOUGHTS AND OBSERVATIONS:

> There are calililies, sweat peas and onions, and weeping willow trees all showing in this climate along with cherry trees in bloom. And Eucalyptus trees.

> My clothes are a little damp in the morning. Coastal marine climate.

> This is a heavily forested pine tree area. We notice that countries that are smaller than the U.S. Or Canada take great care of their forests.

EASTER SUNDAY

We are in Segovia, Spain, about 50 miles north of Madrid. It is a walled city with many cathedrals, churches, castles turned museums, skinny streets with a mix of shops: tourist stuff and high end clothing, kitchen shops and home art pieces. The best part is that folks are parading up and down the streets. Really such fun people watching and trying not to bump into them. And of course it is now the Spanish language that sings through the air. Lots of families. Lots of couples old and young, lots of friends chatting loudly. Everybody is eating something. We ordered something that turned out to be fresh potato chips. Always a weakness of David's but I help him out. We stop in at the Cathedral which is another over-the-top structure. Gothic spires almost like a forest of trees perch on top all reaching for Heaven and flying buttresses supporting everything. The inside was huge and tall, also up into Heaven! The cathedral was finished during the Renaissance so there are a few domed ceilings. But this cathedral is missing the feminine art aspect that others have incorporated so beautifully except for a few good statues of Mary. I have become fascinated with the faces of women. I saw Christ's death over and over in the 18 side-chapels which is not something I usually am happy to see, but today is Easter and it did have an impact that felt right. After this we continued on the same street and walk on to the castle which is where a few Castilian monarchs chose to live. It is now a military/artillery museum along with a wing of the castle royal rooms... after 200 years of serving as a prison. We are high over everything and can view a forest and hills and mountains with snow on them. The most amazing structure here is the 9 mile Roman built aqueduct. Part of it stretches from hillside over to the walled city, 2,500 feet across. It is 2,000 years old built stone upon stone, without mortar. It was used continuously up until the 19^th century. We did not leave the walled area until we walked up to our hotel. What? A hotel?! Yes, well it was time for a good shower and a long session with wifi. McDonald's does not have wifi in Spain! It was quite a shock. But I must tell you about Bilbao and Burgos...

After leaving Gernika we made our was excited to see the Guggenheim museum. Frank Gehry's supposed masterpiece. We took our time trying to stay off the main freeways and finally sailed across the Nervion River bridge and literally gasped. No kidding. It is wild and wonderful. A truly great experience. It is the outside that is so amazing. I did not find the exhibition rooms to be anything but ordinary. And I so wanted to see some contemporary paintings but there was not much offered. However, there is a permanent exhibition of Richard Serra. We both appreciate his work...giant iron naturally textured pieces that you can walk through...in spirals with varying wide and narrow hallways. It was a nice surprise to find a few photographs by a group of men from Vancouver. We were going to stay longer in this city but it was a ZOO. Heavy Easter traffic in car and on foot, in the pouring rain about like Vancouver's weather can be. So we headed out for Burgos. Here we found a cathedral that was the most outrageous of them all. Gothic spires with prickles. Inside was decorated to the very max. Each chapel being built and supported by some rich person...and of course you want to outdo the other guy. There was lots of wonderful art but also some that was too ornate for my liking. I am still so interested in the art of churches, but for me it is the smaller churches where the congregations had to create the beauty in other ways, such as painting on the walls. Simpler structures but beautifully done. As valid an offering to God as the large cathedrals.

We are heading to Portugal's Rio Douro Valley to more vineyards and wine tasting.

THOUGHTS & OBSERVATIONS

> In a town called Portugalete we saw a train car being taken across the river by a moving carrier that was held to a very high bridge-like structure by cables. This way they did not need draw bridges as the river went deep inland as their port.

> This is what we experience: If you can't speak another's language, and you have said something once and it was not understood... just say it again much louder!

> Turning one's world upside down can offer immense creative inspiration. I had no idea how much.

> A painting can inspire. Anselm Kiefer. ”...showed the individual spirit's place within the cosmos.” My belief has always been that our soul “seeds” get used like tools over and over again wherever we are needed.

> We drove over the mountains to Segovia and experienced snow falling.

> The rest stops along the freeways have no bathrooms.

> Lots of storks here. White with some black. Huge nests on trees but mostly on top of church towers. There can be up to 6 on top of a tower. They are feeding their young. David says you can hear their clicking of beaks on top of our hotel roof...we are on the top floor with some skylights.

> I hit a wrong button and got the GPS back to feet and miles. We have grown used to the metric system now.

> Mid-size cities are the most enjoyable. More walkable, free parking and easy to find a spot to overnight. Less hectic traffic! Of course villages are a treat.