Donna, Karla and Matt / Verwolf relatives in Freisland and home base of Ameide. August 28 through September 16, 2013
Donna is our niece. We are close family with her and her husband Gary and grand nephews and nieces. Karla and her mom, Donna, visit us in England and then we all drive to the Netherlands.
August 28
We pick the 'girls' up at 1:00 PM at London's Heathrow Airport. Using cell phones makes connections easy! Wow! What a great hit of love and hugs and happy tears. London is on our list of travels together but now we are heading to Bath. Donna has worked out our itinerary and we love to be led!
On our way, we make a quick trip to Avebury, a huge standing stone circle that we would like Donna and Karla to experience because people are free to wander at will among the stones and on top of the henges, unlike Stonehenge which we will visit later. Many large stone circles seem to be laid out with the stones in the middle, surrounded by a deep ditch, and around it all, a berm or henge (as compared to a fort which has its henge inside the ditch for more protection). Donna and Karla are trying to stay awake until at least 6:00 pm, fighting off the jetlag. They are tiring but trooping bravely around their first look at a standing stone. We notice a long procession trail leading toward the circle from an outside wood henge. A posted sign tells us that this wood henge is where the bones of the dead are kept and that at times, some of these bones were brought to the main circle for a ritual celebration, then returned to their resting place.
August 29 & 30 BATH and STONEHENGE
In Bath we drop off our passengers at Brocks Guest House and find a parking place, feeling pretty lucky with a parking permit on our dash, supplied by the hotel. We are on a park green only a few blocks away from Donna and Karla. There are really good private galleries to inspect along the way to meet them. One is an exhibit of some wonderful, very unusual, fabric art. There is beautiful clothing in other shop windows.
The Guest House is a few steps from 'the Circus', tall residential buildings in a circle the size of Stonehenge, and lined up with the sun and seasons as the stone circles are. Brock Street, named after the architect, is still a sought-after place for people to live today. This area feels a bit like France.
This morning, while the others go on a Roman Bath tour, Karen from the B&B, walks me down hill to a computer repair shop. I have again lost a two-month section of blog writing. Bad news! It cannot be found. I will have to begin again. Okay. That's that. Buck up and accept it.
From here I walk into the town center to meet David, Donna and Karla at a prearranged spot outside the Baths. This is a wonderful part of town, so when I had waited an hour with no sign of them, I wandered the area myself. Up and down streets, into shops, a hotdog to eat as I walked. I find a 'wiener dog' scarf. A must buy for Karla (She and her mom have brother doggies, Duke and Augie). The biggest treat was hearing and following the sound of an elderly man's voice. I find him, a street singer, in a black suit, and a jaunty business hat like Canadian singer, Leonard Cohen's. This man's body is twisted and stooped. He holds a trumpet that he periodically plays. Sinatra songs. 'Come Fly with Me'. I found a space on a bench to enjoy him until he finished his set. He is good! A bit of money in his pot, a shake of his hand and I move on. Up the hill toward the B&B and there are my buddies!
For dinner we try an Indian restaurant recommended by our guidebook, following stairs down into the bowels of the underground. No street watching from here, but it is a lovely setting and good food. And now we enjoy a comedy production in a nice old theater. English base humor! 'Did she really say that?' It was a little shocking and lots of fun. Bath is cool.
In the morning, a visit to Bath Abbey, “Where earth and heaven meet”. Once an Anglo-Saxon abbey, then a Norman cathedral, the present building dates from 1499, making it the last great Gothic church in England. The others climb the 221 steps to the top of the Bell Tower into a chamber, which has a hole to peer down into the sanctuary to make sure the bells are rung at the exact right time. They sit inside the clock face, which used to be lit manually every hour. Inside the church, we look high above us to see beautiful intricate swooping white fan arches. The building's history lines the lower walls.
Now, off to Stonehenge. I am apprehensive about the new set-up (new since I have last been here). Will we be able to really get a feel for the ancient times? Yes. It is so well thought through and still protects this sacred spot. If you can imagine, a large circle of henge and ditch with the triple-stone circle within. There is a walking path circling this, with one long swath that dips into the circle for a closer look. Earphones play out the story as you walk. We learn about the 'hanging stones', the massive lentils each sitting on top of two vertical standing stones, forming the outer circle. How did they get those lentil stones on top? And these stones have come from Wales! They are called the Sarsen circle. Inside this is the circle of 'bluestones”, called this because, inside, the stones are blue with silver flecks... and one more 'horseshoe shaped' group of sarsen stones within.
From the brochure; “The ancient stone circle of Stonehenge is unique; an exceptional survival from a prehistoric culture now lost to us. The monument evolved between 3,000 BC and 600 BC. It is aligned with the midsummer sunrise and midwinter sunset, but its exact purpose remains a mystery. Today, this World Heritage Site is a source of inspiration and fascination and, for many, a place of worship and celebration.” Looking from the outside path, and standing on a wide ancient entry road that stretches out over the land and hill, through trees to a river, you can imagine the pilgrims making their way here, but still, for what kind of gathering? Was it a celebration of light, the coming and going of the seasons, worship and sacrifice? Did many surrounding villages make the trek from afar, meeting family and friends, finding life partners? Did they set up 'tents' and camp spots for a week? Did they dance and sing? Did they have 'Olympic' games?
Avebury is not far away. Did different people use the two sites, for different purposes? The mystery of it all adds to the experience for us.
To Oxford. Karla is up front with her uncle, taking the navigator position. She rides there permanently. She is pregnant and sitting in the back proves to bring on carsickness. Donna and I are happily belted-in on the 'couch' in back. We drive through some of the Oxford colleges to find Holywell, the B&B, which is across the street from the 'New College'. Stewart and Carrie are the owners. Carrie grew up in Edmonds and then lived in Yakima. Yes, sometimes it does feel like a 'small world'.
David and I find a parking spot around the corner and make dinner for us all. We cram around the table, close and fun. Donna has an excursion planned for the evening, off to find the Turf Pub that is close-by; a long-time gathering place for intellects and famous folks such as Thomas Hardy. Finding the pub is not easy, down a narrow cobbled way in the darkness with only a bit of golden light illuminating the stone buildings. We find lots of folks gathered at outside tables in this secret alcove, still talking learned school talk. We watch and take in its ambiance.
September 30
Oxford has much to offer us, and Donna has done her homework. She has arranged for us to have a tour through the home of C.S. Lewis, called the Kilns. Lewis was a Fellow of Magdalen College and was part of a creative group of friends called the 'Inklings'. When he purchased this home and acreage, it became a meeting place for this group, who called it the 'Dung Heap'. Hey, this was a creative place. Not a home to be swept and cleaned! It drew (and welcomed) stray dogs and cats. The so-called common room was the center for discussion and smoking. The fellows would empty their pipes on to the carpet and grind it in with the heels of their shoes, with the excuse that it would keep the bugs away. The long-time curtains on the windows were military blankets for WWII blackouts. They hung until a maid washed them and they disintegrated! Tolkien, Lewis' best friend, was not allowed to visit the Dung Heap. His wife was sure that he would get sick!
There are two wardrobes in the house. Which one is famous, of The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe? C.S. Lewis’ grandfather has carved one ornately. The other is plainer with a mirror.
When War came, he and a friend made a pact to take care of the other's loved ones should one of them die. His friend did not make it through the war. Lewis took care of his wife and daughter for 30 years. They lived in this house with him: Mrs. More and daughter Maureen.
A belief for the college fellows was that their intellectual pursuits were more important than having a wife and family. Lewis remained single and for the most part a theist, later becoming Christian. He had a pen pal, Joy. When she divorced she came to live in Oxford. C.S. always insisted that they were only friends when, in fact, Joy was in love with him. When she was stricken with cancer, he realized how he really felt about her and she rallied for three years of married life together.
Many of you will know that C.S. Lewis gave the Christian reader much to read and think about.
We meet Stewart of the Holywell B&B in the heart of the city. His company is formed around touring the colleges so we are in luck. There were 36 colleges coming into existence during the 100 Years War between Britain and France. The king at the time forbade the students to attend French schools so Oxford became full of young people seeking a place to study. The town people did not appreciate this invasion and did everything they could to get rid of them, including killing them! To protect the students these separate colleges were formed. Essentially everything they needed was behind the walls and buildings: a green space, church, shelter, food, library, bar and gym. The students had one to one tutorials but the lectures were held outside their walls, as it is today.
We toured:
Balliol College, decorated in surprising places with small hobbit-like characters at study. This school graduated Prime Ministers, politicians and four Nobel prize-winning scientists,
Exeter College (Tolkien’s school), and
University College (which is the oldest at 13 Century beginnings and is Bill Clinton and Chelsea Clinton's school.)
Stewart tells us a story about a professor, wanting a sculpted image of his face outside his office door (which was a custom). The professor did not like what the artist did, asked the artist to change it, make it unrecognizable. The artist added chins a sagging nose etc. Slowly and gradually, the professor's physical face turned into a replica of the sculpted one!
When our college tour is complete, our group, with two added Dutch ladies and a young Japanese student, Shuhei, comes with us to Evensong atChrist Church College and Cathedral. Charles Dodgson and Lewis Carroll studied, taught and lived here. The Dean's daughter, Alice, became Alice in Wonderland. A stained glass window can be seen showing March Hare and Mock Turtle. Outside is Christ Church Meadow, pasture, which sometimes holds a rare breed of cattle. Paths run through it and alongside the rivers Cherwell and Isis. Just outside the main entrance to the cathedral is a square on which there stands an olive tree with inscription, passage from the bible, “The leaves of the tree are for the healing of the nations.”
Maybe, most interesting to most, is the staircase...the filming and inspiration for Hogwarts Hall of the film, Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone.
One more very special opportunity is the Bodleian Library. All four of us were taken with what it had to offer, an exhibit entitled Magical Books, subtitle:From the Middle Ages to Middle Earth, where we saw: 1) original handwritten and illustrative drawings of Tolkien who was an extremely good artist. 2) Philip Pullman who wrote Dark Materials Trilogy. A quote from Philip Pullman; 'Oxford, where the real and the unreal jostle in the streets'. 3) C.S. (Clive Staples 'Jack') Lewis’s The Lefay Fragment, which is an unfinished prequel to The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. 4) Alan Garner, author of The Wierdstone of Brisingamen written in beautiful calligraphy. 5) A 'Magical Beast' display of dragons, unicorn griffon, manmaid, mandrake - a plant. 6) Susan Cooper who wrote The Dark is Rising (winning a Newbury Medal for The Grey King). FANTASY and MAGIC! What a treasure we stumbled into!
We leave Oxford and our next stop is Blenheim Palace before we make our way to London. ‘Capability Brown’ whose real name I have forgotten by now designed the landscape. Randolph Churchill describes the view as, 'the finest view in England'. The green foreground, a lake with stone arched bridge in the distance. It is the home of the Dukes and Duchess' of Marlborough. The building is magnificent, built in 1702. John Churchill, first Duke of Marlborough, and his wife Sarah were the first to live here. They did not have children so the ducal line continued through the eldest daughter whose name was Spencer. The fifth Duke wanted to bring the Churchill name back to honor his great grandfather, the first duke. Sir Winston Spencer Churchill married his Clementine in this Palace, as he was also a descendant of John Churchill. The 11th Duke of Marlborough lives here now. Lovely appointments throughout this home, my favorite being the porcelain dishes displayed, Meissen and Sevres.
And we still have time today to visit Hughenden, the countryside manor home of Benjamin Disraeli, colorful Victorian Prime Minister. He lived here from 1848 to 1891 and the interior reflects his vivid personality and climb to the 'top'. He and Queen Victoria had a close friendship. He was flamboyant. She fell for his charm, bestowing many beautiful and expensive gifts upon him, which are in this house as we wander through. His friend, the poet Lord Byron, was an influence on him with his bohemian ways. Disraeli copied his style of clothing, trying to be like him. Both only married for money as neither of them had a penny. However, Mary Ann came along and his marriage to her stopped his roving ways and he turned to his other passion, politics. When Benjamin Disraeli died, Queen Victoria did not go to his funeral but instead spent a day alone in his house and gardens mourning and remembering.
But also hidden in this house was a 1941 top-secret mapping unit, Operation Hillside. It can all be seen today in the basement! I was able to buy a small book here about the Wellington Aircraft that I can add to our family history.
London. We find Donna and Karla's hotel, St. David's in Paddington. We are looking forward to two full days here.
September 3
First on our agenda is the Hop On Hop Off bus to get an overview for Karla and Donna. You know the usual prattle from the tour guide, ''A great fire started in a baker's oven and was ignored until one-third of the city was in ruins. Stone or plaster animal decorations fell off the tops of ornate buildings hence the saying, 'It's raining cats and dogs!' The fire started in Pudding Street and ended in Pie Street.''
We drive through the financial center which is in London City, a one-mile square city that is separate but in the middle of London. This small area stands for the people and is portrayed by dragons... unlike London which stands for Royalty and is represented by lions. (I am just telling you what the guide told us!??) We drive by the Florence Nightingale Memorial Hospital. The tour speaker says, “The city was poor, people in the streets begging and drinking. Even the nurses drank! At their jobs! Nightingale’s first focus was to bring this to an end and to start the habit of washing hands.” and “If you want to see the most stunning train station it is King's Cross... Harry Potter stuff.” We catch the river tour boat to Westminster. (For all that we saw on the river please refer to our trip during our stay in Surrey.)
Westminster Abbey! Founded in 960. Here we are. It is pretty exciting. Memories still linger about a Royal Wedding not too long ago (and now baby George). The outside walls are beautifully mottled at random, some of the old stone replaced by the new which is still white against the grey. We listened on earphones to get the full story and separate to go at our own paces. So many famous people buried here or memorialized with plaques or statues. 'The tombs and monuments speak both of human dignity and achievement…' Each of the small chapels on the sides is dedicated to a purpose, as is the Lady's Chapel where Queens such as Victoria and Mary Queen of Scots are buried. A display of colored flags at the top end is striking. And the Poets' Corner! Shelley, Keats, Byron, Handel, Wordsworth, C.S. Lewis, Jane Austin, Shakespear... on and on. It is all gorgeous and stately, the spirit of this old space reminding us to respect mankind and the creator.
When we leave, we walk past the exterior west door, which we had hurriedly entered. David spots our friend Tim's amazing wall of work. This 'wall of martyrs' had deteriorated so badly that Tim was asked to design and implement a new one. He is a master sculptor. Have you ever wondered who makes these fine pieces that decorate beautiful buildings? Well, this time it is Tim! In this case, the wall represents the new martyrs, contemporary worthy people from all the continents of the world. Martin Luther King stands among them.
We walk from Westminster to Trafalgar Square and pass gated and guarded Downing Street, number 10 being the residence of the Prime Minister, now Gordon Brown. And past stables, perhaps Royal stables? Further along, two gates are guarded by soldiers on horses, almost as still as statues. I ask permission to give one of the horses an apple that I have in my pack. This beauty has a bit in his mouth, but he will eat the apple any way he can. I pick it up a few times, full of drool, and feed it back in.
Lunch is in the cavernous underground crypt of the church, St. Martin in the Field. In a room to the side is an exhibit of work by members of the London Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers. Both David and I love to see good textile work, the patterns, textures and colors, the intricate innovative use of the medium.
Donna and Karla go shopping in Covent Gardens. What a couple of beautiful women! Dutch blonds with animated happy faces sending out positive energy wherever they go! Lucky us.
David and I go across the square to the National Gallery, a free entrance gift to the people. We have just enough time to see four delicious rooms of Impressionists. Again, after thirty years, I see Rousseau's 'Surprise', that famous tiger in a lovely jungle, a jungle that Rousseau imagines, having never been in one. It is windy and rainy which you can only see in the original painting.
At 5:00 we all attend the daily Evensong back in Westminster Abbey. We are seated in the 'quoir', behind the choir and where dignitaries sit, beside that narrow red carpeted area that comes down from the alter steps where William and Kate walked. Thrilling and meaningful for us! I was sad to find that the boy members of the choir were off on holiday between school sessions. There is nothing like the voices of a boys' choir. Evensong ends with this prayer; “Oh gracious and Holy Father, give us wisdom to perceive Thee, diligence to seek Thee, patience to wait for Thee, eyes to behold Thee, a heart to meditate on Thee, and a life to proclaim Thee, through the power of the Spirit of Jesus.” St. Benedict, 480 to 547 AD.
Back to the Hop On, Hop Off bus to finish our tour. All traffic is stalled by a stream of 'a zillion' bicyclists demonstrating for safe bike lanes in the city. It is a positive and good show of numbers that someone will have to listen to. Our redheaded bus tour speaker entertains us with her jokes and fiery personality and tells us where to eat dinner near Victoria station. “Go to Shakespeare’s Pub.” The nieces treat us. Two orders of fish and chips, one roast and Yorkshire pudding, and one beef and ale pie, all with green peas of course! A fun atmosphere! I am exhausted! What a day! Let's take a taxi home!
September 3
I opt to take a day off to catch up on recording this time together. I sleep in and have a lovely slow day in the camper/home parked in a church parking lot at 15 pounds a day. The others have a big day planned: Buckingham Palace and the Changing of the Guard, Tower of London and maybe a musical,Les Mis, in the evening. Their report: With a day pass for all metro, they went early to get up front for the Changing of the Guard. When they arrived there were thousands of people! Afterward they walked through the high end art district, past Sotheby’s and spent a satisfying two hours in the London Tower followed by drinks by the river then Chinese food for dinner. Les Mis next, at Queens Theatre then a pub beer close to home where they arrived at midnight. A jam-packed and fun day!
September 4
Our last day in England! Or so we thought. The camper van right universal joint is giving us fits. Loud knocking. We find a new part and a mechanic to change it, and from the garage, the police who happen to be there, give us a ride to the Holiday Express. Showers and crisp clean sheets for David and I! The next morning we had a slow breakfast with our 'girls', with lots of time for conversation and laughter. U-joint replaced, we are off to the Dover P&O ferry. Finally on our way! But no! The freeway is stopped! Karla had a talk with Gypsy, the GPS, and she guided us around the traffic jam, through a town and on to a deserted freeway, only ten minutes away from our ferry departure on a gorgeous new ship. We sit at a window and slice through the fog on the English Channel.
Bruges, Brussels. David and I explored the city last year but Donna and Karla must see it. Our car problems have put us a day behind schedule so their visit here will have to be short. All hotels, etc., were full... all! A hotel owner took Donna and Karla into her own apartment for the night. Before they retired, they went out into the quaint streets and got a feel for the city. And early the next morning Donna went on a quest for some Belgian chocolate, finding it at 'The Chocolate Line' where she toured the kitchen of a very old (generations of family) business. “Chocolate made with love”, she was assured. Meanwhile we got a parking ticket!
Ameide, Holland. Perhaps we should make this a quick stop just so Karla can see where her Verwolf family came from, but when we find Jori and Elspeth Verwolf, they are disappointed that we will not be there for the day. They have plans for us! So of course we stay for the day. It is the Festival of Light in Ameide and it only happens every five years! After coffee in their lovely Dutch back garden, we walk through town to the church for some family history. An old Baptismal book is carefully laid before us in which is listed great grandfather's name: Johannes, son of Joris Verwolf and Leentja van Es, born 2nd February, 1854, baptized March 5, 1854.
There are activities going on at the river. Homemade 'sleds' start on a platform high above the river and careen down a slide into the river. The goal is to reach a point to pull on a bell without upturning into the river. Not many make the goal! It is hilarious! Everybody cheers and jeers from their seats on the riverbank.
Elspeth has dinner waiting on our return. A traditional Dutch dinner of mashed potatoes and gravy, red peppers and onions, beef, cauliflower with white sauce, salad and dessert of ice cream with thick pourable sauces of vanilla or caramel, all topped with whipped cream. We are being royally treated.
Night darkness comes and a downpour of rain concludes and it is time to see the lights! All the streets are decorated in themes, which the residents have conceived, built and installed. Jori and Elspeth's street is all about harvest; enlarged color photos of apple and pear orchards and the farmer, Elspeth's father at work, displayed among wood fruit boxes and painted apples and pears. And, of course, the lights! We walk down other decorated streets to an open stage where the town people have gathered to watch a 'sand painter'. His canvas is sand, which he makes come alive and the image is projected on large screens for all to see. Quite remarkable! We all oooooh and aaaaah in one voice. Our tour from here is extended in a horse drawn carriage, as we clippity-clop through the different lighted displays. Themes: Birds on moving spirals. Tulips. Windmills. Kissing dolls. Arizona. Snow skiing. Western cowboy. It is like Christmas in September. Thank you Jori and Elspeth and the folks of Ameide!
We take Donna and Karla to a hotel by the freeway where we sleep in the parking lot. The atmosphere seems a bit sketchy but we lock our doors and settle in. Oh! Oh! Bright lights from a police car shine on us. What would this camper be doing here with its foreign license plates? David inquires if there is a problem. His English shocks the police. Scary moments but soon we are all laughing. Now we have the protection of the police!
Amsterdam. Donna and Karla are happy in their new home/hotel, their own rooms with common cooking facilities and a nice sitting room, which looks out on a canal. David and I park out of the city in a Park and Ride with a short tram service into the town center. We meet the next morning at the obelisk in Dam Square and wait for Karla's brother Matt to show up. He has flown in from Seattle and it is because of him that we are all here in Amsterdam. He will be defending his thesis to earn a PhD from the Vrije Universiteit. We follow Matt, who knows this city from attending school here, to the Seasons restaurant to get some great food in a funky canal-side setting, but also to catch up with one another. One comment that Matt makes is, “Most U.S. citizens wanted to go to war after '9/11'.” I am shocked! That cannot be true! Do I live in my own little comfy world with all like-minded people? People who were sick and majorly stressed at the actions their government took. It is still scary to think of it.
Matt comes to dinner which his mom and sister make for us at the hotel. He watches an important Seattle Sea Hawks football game. What a world we live in! Now he must buckle down and make sure that he is ready for his 'battle'. We will not see him for a few days.
It is Sunday. Donna has our day planned; a canal boat ride and bicycling on the polder dikes. This girl could be a professional tour guide. Our days are busy, interesting and fun! We ride the canals, have a French lunch and then make our way to STAR BIKES RENTAL and COFFEE. We get fitted for bikes and roll out the door to a ferryboat, which takes us a short distance to the countryside. Have you ever been on a Dutch bike? Hefty bikes. No gears, big tires, brake by back peddling, 'sit up straight' handlebars. And my bike has an added feature, a wiggly front tire. What fun! It is a beautiful day for us. Donna and Karla have a goal to make a full loop. David and I have no agenda so bid them goodbye at a little canal ferry and meander our own way. It is hot! A beer stop helps. We ride by the water past farms, villages and country residences. Gardens are gorgeous in their Dutch tradition. Periodic bridges over small canals make us work our legs hard to get over the humps. Oh, oh. At the apex of one I fall, a hole in my brand new expensive NOT YOUR DAUGHTER'S jeans brought all the way from Seattle! It seems that I need those missing gears to help me up the slightest hill! The hot weather changes to wind and rain. It is welcomed.
Monday we take the number 5 tram from Central Station to the Rijksmuseum, the museum of the Netherlands, newly renovated. A huge cut out slogan installment welcomes us at our 'get-off' stop, I AMSTERDAM...the AM a different color so that it reads...I AM AMSTERDAM. We stick our heads through the A's, stoop through the D, a photo opportunity. The new building is beautiful but somewhat confusing as it stretches over a road, so there is an “up and down and over” factor that throws your inner directional compass. Where am I? Which way do I go next? Have I been here before?
I took notes and notes on paintings and information that had meaning for me, but I will leave it safely in my notebook and not bore you. I will put a few things that might interest you in a 'Thoughts and Observations' list. My experience of this museum was like going away, out of current time, and in and out of many dreams, and like our dreams, we don't fully understand them, but we have a feeling that a message might have been sent.
THOUGHTS and OBSERVATIONS:
Ø Rijksmuseum: some painters I liked: Johan Hendrik Weissenbruch, Piet Mondrian, and Willem Witsen.
Ø Amsterdam Impressionists: Willem Maris, Matthijs Maris, Jacob Maris.
Ø Cobra Group: Karel Appel and others used the art of psychiatric patients as an important source of inspiration, trying to achieve the same creative freedom and uninhibited expressiveness.
Ø I liked the warmth and craft of the 'Ship Room'. The decorative elements in the building itself, cathedral-like, almost the worship of the arts, I found it refreshing; stained glass pieces depicting artists, replacing the saints of religion. Mosaic floors, beautifully chosen wall colors, decorative borders on edges. A stunning piece that I think took the prize for overall admiration, Two Mothers,a sculpture. A very sweet mother with a babe in her arms and puppies tied up in her apron, a fish net at her side with a sack of fresh caught fish, and the other mother, a dog mom at the woman's feet. A wonderful thing!
Ø And lastly, watercolors from The Hague School (inspired by the Barbizon group). These artists preferred to work outdoors, to capture the light and atmosphere of landscape. (Karla's favorite: The Month of July by Paul Joseph Constantin Gabriel 1828 to 1903.)
> A pub called The Slug and Lettuce.
> Through the window of a business, a huge hanging and glittering ball of light made with used eyeglasses.
> A tip from a church official, also parking director, a Latvian fellow, says that we must be in Latvia in June for the Mid Summer Festival (22 and 23). There are bon fires all over the country.
> When I was a young girl in Canada, I would get up in the middle of the night for live events happening with the British monarchy. Too early for TV in our house, we would listen to events on the CBC, which originated on BBC. That's where I was when young Princess Elizabeth married and also when she became the Queen. And to follow up, I still have two scrapbooks full of the wedding, coronation, and the 'Royal Children'.
> Glancing out the window I see a grass mower on a hillside, but where is the driver? It is moving and cutting by remote!
September 10
And now the time comes when we focus on nephew Matt. We are here to attend Matt's defense of his thesis at Vrije Universiteit, here in Amsterdam. He hopes to attain a second PhD; one has already been defended and bestowed in California from the Fuller School. It's an unbelievably bleak and rainy day. Before we go to the University we stop for flowers and cake, the gorgeous bouquet from a roadside vendor and five fancy cakes, already ordered, seven blocks away. Donna and I covered those blocks on the run! These amenities will be ready at the reception after Matt's 'performance' (as I soon find out, he must perform well today to earn his reward). Years of preparation have gone into this and it is quite thrilling to be a witness. He already has a Master of Divinity degree from 'a free ride' study at Princeton, first graduating from Whitworth in Spokane, Washington.
Matt made us all so proud, so thoughtful and spontaneous on his feet, so real in his answers to the questions of the row of learned Doctors and his mentors who wear their special robes and hats and face him straight on. These are the opponents playing the 'devil's advocates” it seems to me. They ask questions about his thesis statements, “What did you mean by this? Do you really think this is true?” But Matt doesn't flinch. No muddle. No panic. And he looks so handsome in his black tie and tails. A tall well built man. He has chosen two buddies to sit at his side, also serious in their tuxedos. They are there to support him silently.
The conclusion to Matt's thesis seems very simple and obvious to me. But it must be defended. Here it is in a layperson's understanding. In the Netherlands there has appeared intolerance from the Dutch toward the Islamic people. The Dutch, up to this point, have led the way in TOLERANCE. Matt looks at the question; how should Dutch Christians react to this phenomenon and to other intolerant situations? He argued that Christ called his followers to be hospitable and tolerable toward all ('Love Your Neighbor, etc.'). It matters not who is thought to be going to heaven or hell. That should not be an issue to the Christians' way of looking at tolerance. Matt says, “Do I have the right to try to make the people of Islam into Christians? Are we not all made equal?” One 'opponent' said that Matt seemed to be denying the fact that there occurs a cultural clash. Another 'opponent' asks, “Are all atheists and Muslims going to hell?” Matt answers, “You can still love your neighbor no matter what your views are on that.”
The team of 'opponents” file out to decide on Matt's defense. Did he do well enough? We wait. And wait a little more, but in the final decision, Matt becomes Doctor Matt Kaemingk once again. After the reception and congratulations in an adjoining room we are on our way to a dinner party that his favorite professor and wife are putting on for him. It is like a family affair in this house. Matt's wife Heather and one of their babies, Kees, attend via Skype. Delicious home cooked food which friends and family share, and 'get -to-know-you' talk and even singing; men's deep voices in beautiful harmony.
September 11, 12 & 13
It is the end of our time with Karla and Donna. What will we do without them, their energy and loving ways? Their leadership! After leaving them at the airport we stop to catch up on ignored items. One of them is to reserve some time at the Taizé community in France on September 18th through 22nd. In hours, a message of acceptance comes back. Now we can head to Lichtaart, Friesland, in the north of Holland. We are anxious to meet Cees and Cisca Verwolf. We have not known about them until fairly recently. We find them in the countryside in a lovely home with garden, so traditionally Dutch. And we love these two. Yes, Cees is a bit like David's brother, Bill. Cees and Cisca seem like pals immediately.
We talk of Cees' long, long walk from Friesland to join the pilgrimage to Santiago, Spain. We talk of religious beliefs, a refreshingly clear talk. And Cees tells us about his five years on ship, an engineer at sea and then the decision to marry and find a home on land. We have a meal together, beginning with the traditional words, as in France's “Bon Appetite”, “May the meal's nourishment go with you.”
Cees and Cisca want to make sure we see things that will interest us. They know that we love art so the first place they take us is an exhibit in the deceased artist's tiny home. Ruurd Wiersma’s art is still in his home because he painted wonderful folk art scenes on his walls! I love this art. It is so real and honest. I think the artist could not help telling these illustrated stories of Dutch country life. Such color and imagination!
From here we go to the brand new Art Museum in Leeuwarden, so new that earlier today it was dedicated by the Queen. The red carpet is just being rolled up. This is the first day it is open to the public. Lots of folks are here. The architecture is good (Abe Bonnema). The art is good. The large square that it faces is good. The exhibits in this museum have been chosen to reveal how Friesland became the place it is.
One amazing little story and photo; Margaretha Zelle from Leeuwarden was executed as a spy by a French firing squad in the middle of the First World War. Ah, she was Mata Hari, the mesmerizingly beautiful and mysterious dancer! Here is another exhibit on Dikes, Polders and Mounds, the struggle against water. The soil keeps sinking; the sea level is rising.
We also are driven around to see their wider community, other small towns they visit in their daily lives. Dokkum is very special. We go there for groceries but the town is small and exciting, good walks along the canal and well kept streets full of interesting things to look at. And when we drive the roads there are crop fields and churches and neatly kept homes, so truly Dutch, well tended and cared for. There are wonderful ponies with long manes that sweep the grass.
Cisca keeps us well fed and “coffeed” and we all enjoy the conversation around the table. More things we learn: Cees likes to bird and rabbit hunt with pellets. Any other hunting is forbidden. This is Friesland; there are no big wild beasts on this flat open land. We learn that one of their daughters lives in the next town and Cisca often looks after the grandchildren when their mother is working. Another daughter lives in Norway. She and her husband and children moved there with his brother's family to work a farm they were able to buy. Tragedy struck when the daughter's husband died from silage fumes, a deadly gas that can take a person with just one breath. Cees and Cisca visit her often, helping out on the farm. This is such a sad story. Also, we both have a relationship with a Transylvanian village in Romania. I had forgotten that the Dutch people have done much to help the predominantly Hungarian people in their small villages, a church-to-church relationship.
We walk a little trail up to the church behind their home. Because it is no longer used for worship, it was sold for 1 euro to a society who will take care of it, because its value and history are so important. Sometimes concerts and art exhibits are held there. Cees takes care of the churchyard.
We are treated to a fabulous Chinese meal, a goodbye meal. These two are strong kind people who have been so generous with themselves and their home.
We hope we have interested them in attending the American Verwolf contingent in June at the Montana Verwolf Reunion.
We have heard of more relatives in Ameide. Cees has been in touch with his sister Irena. We must go back and meet the rest of the family.
September 14
We move back to the south direction. David visits a steam (STOOM) plant from the 1920s. A Steam museum and steam-run pumping station. Fifteen years ago, after not functioning for a decade, a winter storm emergency called it back into service. So it is ready again upon demand.
On the freeway again, we drive under an overpass and realize that it is really an aqueduct carrying boats over our heads! We drive from Lemmer to Kampen to Zwolle today. In Kampen we walk the medieval streets. They have come alive with the olden times; all the folks are in costume. It is a medieval festival and the ambiance is so real. The tall quaint buildings were certainly the backdrops for this 'play'. As often as not, the church tower is leaning, safely stuck in the sinking deep mud! And the canals of course! Every town seems special because of its walks along the canals. In the evening we are in Zwolle. We have heard that there is an excellent art museum here.
September 15
The art museum is two years old and was designed by Abe Bonnema who also designed the Fries Museum that we visited a few days ago. On its top sits a glittering grey bulbous shape lovingly called the 'cloud'. We wander amongst the delicious contemporary art that was mostly collected by one man, Hubert-Jan Henket, who gave it all to the museum society in this city, so they had a good start. His son, Pieter, has a film and photo exhibit upstairs under the cloud. The white halls and stairs wander up and up. The architecture is exciting. The theme seems to be; 'We (meaning the Dutch) haveenough.' One installation features an orange man lying on his back with a funnel in his mouth. Perhaps it is perceived that the Dutch are becoming 'great consumers'? I love to see fresh new work, different than anything else I have seen. Not a copy, but the artist’s own stamp. I found this in the work of Jeroen Krabbe. Not being able to read the Dutch language, it appears to me that his inspiration is children’s drawings, perhaps his own that were saved by a loving mother! He interfaces them with photos from a later time. They are large images, the kind you want to figure out, from which to make your own stories.
We arrive in Ameide just in time. Cees sister, Arina, is expecting us to walk to church with her, the family church where David's grandfather was born. We have a few minutes to chat. Arina is a lovely person, immediately warm and welcoming. She is a phlebotomist, extracting blood for testing at the local hospital home visits. We find out that her husband died six years ago and the loss is still very hard for her. She has two sons, Arjan, married to Margit (two daughters) and the other who knocks on the door. Harry and his wife Marrigja have come to join us for church.
The theme of the sermon; 'Trust yourself to go beyond what you think you are capable of.' A great thought, supported by the story of Peter not trusting himself to walk on water. But, the homily went on and on and on, and we couldn't understand a word! We sang one hymn from a contemporary book but the rest were all psalms from the bible in lovely easy-to-sing melodies. Our 'cousin' Jori, as an Elder, was the facilitator of the service.
Back at Arina's home, two of her brothers and their wives joined us for coffee, with Harry and Marrigja also: Ton and Nel Verwolf, and Arie and Frieda Verwolf. Such a nice family gathering! Harry and his wife tell us of their trip in the States in a rented Ford Mustang. Brice Canyon, Yosemite, some of Route 66, Los Vegas and San Francisco. They are seasoned travelers.
In the morning, before we leave, Arina takes some time from work to visit with us. We wish she could jump in the car and come with us! We are hoping that she will also go to the Montana Verwolf reunion with Cees and Cisca. We drive out of town. Cold icy rain knocks against the windshield.
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